Blue Lotus Moisturizing Mask

By: TOM BRANNA

Editor

Ingredients

%

Phase A

Deionized water
66.23

Disodium EDTA (Protameen) (Protachem NA2-P)
0.05

Hydramol PGPL Ester (Noveon) (PEG/PPG-8/3 Laurate)
0.50

Phenonip (Clariant) (Phenoxyethanol, methyl-, ethyl-, butyl-, propyl-, [and] isobutylparaben)
0.50

Triethanolamine (Ashland) (Triethanolamine 99% low freeze)
0.50

Phase B

Titanium Dioxide - 3328 (Mineral & Pigment Solutions, Inc.)
1.60

Albagel-4444 (Bentonite) (Mineral & Pigment Solutions, Inc.)
3.00

Kaolin 2457 (Mineral & Pigment Solutions, Inc.)
7.00

Phase C

Schercemol DISF Ester (Noveon) (Diisostearyl fumarate)
3.00

Schercemol NGDO Ester (Noveon) (Neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate)
5.00

Promulgen D Emulsifier (Noveon) (Cetearyl alcohol [and] ceteareth-20)
3.00

Lipo GMS-450 (Lipo) (Glyceryl stearate)
4.30

Emersol 7036 (Cognis) (Stearic acid)
1.50

BR Forest (Chemyunion) (Astrocaryum murumuru butter)
1.00

Phenonip (Clariant) (Phenoxyethanol, methyl-, ethyl-, butyl-, propyl-, [and] isobutylparaben)
0.50

Phase D

Hydramol TGL Ester (Noveon) (Polyglyceryl-3 laurate)
2.00

Blue Lotus Fragrance # S5-26205 (Premier Specialties, Inc.)
0.20

FD&C Blue No. 1 (1% soln) (Dye) (Noveon Hilton Davis)
0.04

FD&C Red No. 33 (1% soln) (Dye) (Noveon Hilton Davis)
0.08

Procedure

Add water to mixing vessel. Dissolve EDTA into water with good agitation. Add remaining ingredients in Phase A in order shown. Sprinkle ingredients in Phase B to Phase A one at a time and mix with good agitation. Heat Phase A/B to 75 - 80°C. In a separate vessel, combine ingredients in Phase C and heat to 80°C. Add Phase C to Phase A/B and continue mixing while cooling to 40°C. Add ingredients in Phase D in the order shown. Mix while cooling to 35°C.

Properties

Appearance: blue, viscous cream
pH: 6.5 – 7.5
Viscosity (mPa·s) 16,000 – 24,000 (Brookfield RVT @ 20 rpm, #6 spindle, measured after 24 hours)
Specific gravity (g/ml) 1.00 – 1.05
Total solids (%) 31.0 – 36.0
Stability: Passed 2 months @ 40°C, 1 month @ 50°C, 3 cycles freeze/thaw.